From north to south across its approximately 900 kilometers, from the Ionian to the Adriatic, Puglia has at least four important and large wine regions: Capitanata, Central Murgia, Itria Valley, and Salento. But in two of these macro-areas, the undisputed king of the grape varieties is Nero di Troia.
These areas are encountered as soon as you set foot in Puglia coming from the north. Capitanata is the first, encountered when arriving from Molise.
Anciently called Daunia, the area today corresponds to the province of Foggia.
The denominations are the ancient San Severo DOC and Tavoliere delle Puglie, which was added more recently. San Severo DOC was the first in Puglia, introduced in April 1968 and followed shortly after by Martina Franca DOC and Locorotondo DOC, both dating back to June 1969.
It is easy to deduce that the DOC San Severo takes its name from the most central city of the wine-growing area in question. The wines produced in Capitanata are red, rosé, and white.
For reds and rosés, the reference grape varieties are the native Uva di Troia, and the Montepulciano and Sangiovese cultivars. For whites, there is ample space for Bombino Bianco, widely cultivated in the South, of Spanish origin and not strictly native, along with Trebbiano. Both are among the most cultivated white grape varieties in the area. Further south, the only native white grape variety of Puglia is Verdeca.
Although San Severo Bianco is a DOC, here it is the red that reigns supreme. In particular, the Nero di Troia, anciently and locally called “sumarello,” produces excellent red and rosé wines increasingly vinified in purity. The Nero di Troia is the third native grape variety in importance and production in Puglia, after Primitivo and Negroamaro.
In the Capitanata area, Nero di Troia is also used for very interesting blends. For example, together with Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and other white grapes, it creates the tasty Cacc’e Mmitte di Lucera DOC.
Further down, coming to the Puglian area most suited to viticulture, here is the Central Murgia.
Today more than ever, the entire area is highly focused on high-quality production. Where once the grape varieties were cultivated and harvested intensively, for some years now, everything from cultivation to production is focused on quality, which gives the final product structure, complexity, and longevity. The area is dominated by the native grape varieties of Nero di Troia, followed by those of Aglianico. Grapes mainly vinified in purity but, enriched with other varieties, create great blends: examples include some of the top wines of Crifo, a brand of the ancient wine cooperative of Ruvo di Puglia.
The most commercially successful line is called Grifone: a perfect synthesis of the philosophy behind the Cantina di Ruvo di Puglia. Nero di Troia in purity for Grifone Nero di Troia Puglia IGP, a blend with a varying amount of Montepulciano depending on the vintage for Grifone Castel del Monte DOP.
Characteristics: high-quality wines from native grape varieties, with traditional cultivation methods and modern winemaking techniques, all highlighted by high-end packaging.
But Murgia is not just Nero di Troia: this area is also enriched by the grapes of the Bombino Nero variety, as well as Aglianico and Montepulciano, while for white grapes, there are Bombino Bianco, Pampanuto, Greco, Fiano, and Malvasia bianca.
Native to the coastal area is the Moscato bianco, an excellence from which the DOP Moscato di Trani is produced, a dessert wine that is the pride of many of the region’s companies.
In the area, there is also the wild Moscatello grape, which can be harvested late as done by the Cantina di Ruvo di Puglia, which harvests it even in the first decade of November and from which it derives the Crifo label Moscatello Selvatico Vendemmia Tardiva Puglia IGP.
Two DOCGs out of the total four in Puglia are dedicated to Nero di Troia, the Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva and the Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva, and two DOPs: Castel del Monte and Rosso Barletta.
